Carnival in Malta - A colourful tale of unruly parties, impolite behaviour and unhappy Grand Masters!

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Malta’s friendly people, beaches, and atmosphere may draw tourists eleven months out of the year, but come February, there’s only one reason for the season: Carnival.  Gaudy and whimsical, this yearly extravaganza inspires celebrations throughout the islands.  Anyone taking a flight to Malta around now will catch locals at their most exuberant.  Read all about Carnival’s oddities and surprises; you won’t want to miss out!

 

 

There’s no getting around the fact that Carnival is eccentric.  Originally, the Knights of St. John started these celebrations during the 16th century in order to let loose before Lent.  Eventually, these gentlemen started having too much fun.  Grand Master Piero de Ponte eventually had enough, feeling that the giddy jokes, decorations, and games were inappropriate.  He chastised the knights but permitted games as long as they did credit to Christian behaviour.

 

 

Keeping Carnival in check proved easier said than done.  Judging by his actions and subsequent unpopularity, Grand Master Lascaris faced wild antics when he took office in 1636.  The knights had taken to holding rowdy parties in their auberges.  Even worse, masked women were joining them—something that the grand master found appalling.  His new bans provoked groans throughout the island, but the last straw happened when he outlawed devil outfits.  Blaming a priest for influencing Lascaris’ outlook, the knights mocked these proceedings by dressing up in satirical costumes.  The grand master arrested one troublemaker, but chaos erupted throughout the island.  Disappointed partiers damaged a Jesuit college before rushing to St. James Cavalier and rescuing their fellow warrior from incarceration. Lascaris eventually resumed command, but by then, Carnival had established its reputation for rowdiness. 

 

 

Today’s most distinctive and earthy Maltese Carnival is held in Nadur, Gozo.  Enigmatic and slightly gritty, this hilltop town is widely acknowledged by aficionados to host the truest Carnival.  A dark, mysterious element pervades the narrow streets and enhances the “grotesque” masks on display.  On the other hand, some people criticise its seedy tendencies and loss of innocence.  Yet the spontaneous carnivals that erupt throughout the week are undeniably linked to Malta’s medieval past. 

 

 

No matter where you go, it’s impossible to miss out on Carnival’s vibrant Maltese rituals.  The nocturnal parties, costumes, floats, bands, and sticky treats are just what any knight would want.  Parata dances playfully re-enact the Great Siege of 1565 while kukkanja harkens back to a carnival game inaugurated by a grand master in 1721.  Originally, party goers converged in Palace Square, where hidden prizes like meat and live animals went to whoever reached them first.  This tradition is somewhat different today, but the “finders keepers” incentive still thrives.  Nor is food neglected.  Sweet coloured almonds are enjoyable street snacks.  A greater indulgence is prinjolata---a great cake quivering under a load of nuts, fruit, and cream.  Fun?  Definitely.  As it has for ages past, Carnival hits that sweet spot before Lent. 

 

 

 

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