Easter in Malta is very popular due to the Christian dominance of the island. Easter Sunday is actually the end of the Easter celebrations which start off with Ash Wednesday marking the beginning of Lent. Lent is a period of sacrifice. Although diminishing in popularity it is still considered by many as common tradition not to eat meat on Wednesdays and Fridays. Sweets are also banned for those who believe in sacrifice.
The beginning of Holy Week proper is marked by the feast of Our Lady of Sorrows which always falls a week before Good Friday. This feast is one of the most devout and beloved in Malta and in most villages a procession with the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows is held along the streets on Friday evening.
Palm Sunday commemorates the entry of Jesus into Jerusalem and a strong tradition still practiced on the day is the blessing of palm fronds and olive boughs. With the introduction of the many exhibitions of miniature statues and churches held all over Malta, Palm Sunday has also become the day when these are inaugurated. Various concerts of sacred music are also given on this day in churches and other sacred venues.
The next important day for the Easter period is Maundy Thursday. Churches are open for the so-called ‘7 visits’. Families go around 7 different churches of the islands, praying in each church. There are specific prayers which are said during each visit. One can even buy a prayer book with all the prayers from most of the churches. In the evening, mass is celebrated in special remembrance of the moment when Jesus established the Holy Eucharist and when, during the last supper, He washed the feet of the 12 apostles. In most churches, 12 men are chosen and the priest humbly washes their feet.
After Maundy Thursday, Good Friday follows. On Good Friday, Catholics do not eat meat and sweets and also do not eat between meals. Stalls with special traditional food are set up in village squares. The most common is ‘Karamelli tal-ħarrub’ which are sweets made with carob honey. Another common type of food is ‘qassatat ta’ l-inċova’ meaning anchovy pies, as fish is still permitted to be eaten on the day. A typical sweet pastry which is also found during the Easter time is the ‘kwareżimal’, which are made with almond filling. The name is derived from the Italian Quarezima, or quadragesima, meaning the forty days of Lent.
Something that you surely should not miss is ‘figolli’. These are pastry cut in different shapes, filled with almonds and then coated with icing sugar and decorated with colours, chocolate and colourfully wrapped chocolate Easter eggs. Figolli can be bought in most confectioneries. Figolli are not eaten on Good Friday but should be kept intact till Easter Sunday.
On Good Friday church bells are not played. Instead some old villages still use the traditional ‘cuqlajta’, which is a large wooden rattle installed in the church’s belfry. You may hear the cuqlajta in the villages of Qormi and Zejtun. Good Friday is characterised by the various processions complete with around 12 large statues, traditionally depicting scenes from the way of the cross. These processions, or pageants, feature the whole Biblical story and include colourful Roman soldiers, accompanying Pontius Pilate, the apostles, prophets, and numerous children carrying emblems related to the passion story. Bands march solemnly, playing funeral dirges. You will recognise most biblical characters, including a dirty Barabbas in chains, grand King Herod and David, harp in hand. These processions are held in the afternoon in Valletta and in most of the villages in Malta.
On Saturday most churches remain open during the whole day for adoration. The churches are adorned with drapes and flowers for the special occasion. Then late in the evening the special mass for Easter is celebrated. As you enter the church you are given a candle. The ceremony starts off in pitch darkness until the priest lights up a candle at the back of the church symbolising Jesus’ resurrection. The fire is passed from candle to candle until the whole church lights up. At the intonation of the Gloria, the bells start pealing again, after having been used last on Maundy Thursday.
Easter Sunday is a family day. Families unite for lunch and give out Easter presents. In the morning processions with the statue of Risen Jesus are held in various localities. Some still hold the traditional run with the stautue, symbolizing Christ’s resurrection and victory over death. By noon the statue enters in the church and a blessing from the chaplain of the parish follows.
Easter in Malta is a joyous time for all the family. Easter is probably the best time to see the Maltese Christian traditions come to life in the churches and all over the streets.